Samurai, chicken gizzards and shrines
I have always been wary of volcanoes. And this one, Sakurajima, just belched however, the residents are nonchalant. Running away is not an option—I’m wearing 40 lbs of Samurai armour and rope sandals.
By Keith Edwards
The volcano’s moment coalesces my thinking of Kagoshima a place of extraordinarily diverse experiences, a part of that confoundingly delightful enigma that is Japan. And, it’s all just a short flight or slightly longer Shinkansen train ride from Tokyo to the southern tip of Kyushu.
Where to begin?
Probably in the bath. More accurately the personal hot spring onsen in the bathroom of my luxurious tatami mat and futon traditional room at the Relais and Chateau, Wasurenosato Gajoen. Located in a hamlet just north of Kagoshima I’m struck by the hotel’s remarkable recreation of an intimate traditional country inn. It’s secreted in a verdant forested ravine dotted with satsuma trees and bubbling with a natural hot spring. Vegetables are drying in the open. Chickens roost in trees. Guest rooms are in thatched roof cottages.
I’m encouraged to use the provided traditional robes on property so, berobed and padding into the Ichou-no-ma dining room, I realize I’m in for a treat. Beautifully presented cuisine here lets me sink effortlessly into the serenity of Japan long ago.
Welcoming the Kami
Earlier I was granted a deeply moving rare private ceremony at the Kirishima Jingu Shrine. Dedicated to Ninigi no Mikoto, grandson of the sun goddess Amaterasu, who descended from heaven and married a local princess. He is credited with founding the dynasty from whom the current Japanese emperors are descended.
The ceremony began with a demure temple maiden clad in red and white robes thunderously pounding a giant taiko drum to summon and honour the Shinto spirits of the kami. As the shinshoku (priest) later explained, after the purifying ritual with a haraisgushi wand and interceding on my behalf for good fortune and peace of mind, kami can both inhabit and be part of the natural world. I leave with an ofuda, a paper talisman of protection and good fortune. This ancient spiritual ceremony resonated more than I could rationally explain.
But not everything in Kagoshima is spiritual. On the same day, I was buried up to my neck in volcanic sand on the beach at Ibusuki. It was a curiously satisfying Zen-like experience as the heat from Sakurajima pressed down on me and my heartbeat pulsated through every inch of my body.
Dressed to kill
Kagoshima is deeply linked to its Samurai warriors and the powerful Shimazu clan under the Tokugawa shogunate. This is why I’m dressed as I am, (see picture), in the spectacular Sengan-en traditional gardens and the home built by the 19th head of the Shimazu family, Mitsuhisa, in 1658.
The gardens use the brooding Sakurajima as ‘borrowed scenery’. Takamori Saigo their most famous samurai may well have stood here. While on tour, I pursued my inner samurai and visited nearby Izumi, home to the largest collections of immaculately preserved samurai houses in Japan.
Sweet black pigs
Culture is all very well, of course, but I was ready to dine and Kagoshima had a special gastronomic treat for me: Tonkasu, a breaded deep-fried pork cutlet of incredible sweetness and succulence from the rare Kagoshima Black Pig. No wonder Kurobuta pork is compared to Wagyu beef.
And then there’s Japanese whisky. At the Mars Tsunuki Distillery a relative newcomer to whisky distilling their tasting room is a bijou gem. After a great deal of indecision and happy sampling I picked up a bottle of Tsunuki cask strength single cask whisky. It was like drinking liquid Christmas cake with a golden kick.
My guide Mikiko coaxed me to try something completely different at Hiraku a restaurant that won a Japan Menu Award for grilled chicken gizzards. As I squeezed into the narrow counter inches away from the chef fanning the fiercely hot charcoal grill, I wasn’t sure. After the first bite, I was hooked. Simply grilled skewers of chicken hearts and livers followed all astonishingly flavourful moist and tender. A must try local experience.
Ceramics and pasta
If you have time the Satsuma Denshokan Museum has a stunning collection of the finest Satsuma ceramics. The building and grounds are beautiful and as a bonus it houses an excellent Italian restaurant Fenice.
Also well worth a visit is Shoko Shuseikan Museum adjacent to Sengan-en. It was here in Kagoshima that the Japanese industrial revolution triggered by the Meiji restoration kicked off.
Please don’t rush
With so many fascinating and diverse opportunities in Kagoshima prefecture, it pays to plan carefully and allow a sufficient number of days. I’d recommend at least two, even three. My local guide was invaluable.
If you go…
Wasurenosato Gajoen is ideal for an intimate traditional inn experience.
https://gajoen.jp/en/
In Kagoshima city, try the new Sheraton for the best of both worlds. All the luxurious comforts of a Western hotel mixed with traditional Japanese elements. Ask for a room or suite over-looking Sakurajima. You will never forget the sunrise.
Recommended guide, Mikiko Horikiri.
4.horifam@gmail.com
