Built on the water and celebrated for its glorious art and architecture, Venice is one of the world’s fairytale destinations.
And what better way to take in all the magic of the floating city than from the regal
16th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal where Aman Resorts has opened yet another
of its iconic retreats.
By the late 13th century, Venice, with its winding canals and arching bridges, dominated Mediterranean commerce and was celebrated as the most prosperous city in Europe. The plunder that had funded its meteoric rise was brought to its shores after the sacking and pillaging of Constantinople in 1204, and newly powerful families pushed aside local fishermen and refugees as they fought to impress with grand building projects. One after another, they commissioned talented artists and architects to design and construct hundreds of grand buildings on closely spaced wooden piles.
Despite the rising waters that cause the regular flooding of the lower levels of homes and businesses even to this day, many of the original grand structures, which can be up to 700 years old, are still intact and in pretty good shape after years of life on the water. (Their secret? The submerged trunks of the alder trees that were used to build the foundations are known to be water resistant.)
The grand palazzo with its soaring ceilings and romantic off the water entrance that we’re calling home during our stay on the Grand Canal was built by a wealthy trading and sea-faring family. Time dictated frescos, exquisite reliefs, treasured objets d’art and an impressive library collection were added as the years and a variety of owners passed. In 1865, the home came into the Papadopoli-Brandolini family by marriage and it was only then that the first wave of restoration works by Michelangelo Guggenheim started to bring it back to life in earnest.
At the close of the 19th century, with the palazzo on the Grand Canal as part of her dowry, Vera Papadopoli Aldobrandini married Count Giberto Arrivabene. The palazzo has remained in the family and is now entrusted to Vera’s grandson, Count Giberto Arrivabene Valenti Gonzaga, who lives discreetly on the top floor. (We were actually able to find some of his stunning Murano glassware pieces available for sale in the hotel’s tiny boutique.)
The rest of the property is under Aman’s stewardship. The company has underwritten the palazzo’s elaborate refurbishing to make it one of the finest living examples of Neo-Renaissance and Rococo styles from the mid 1800s.
The grandest floor of the palazzo is known as the piano nobile. This high ceilinged, simply furnished space is accessed by a sweeping two-level staircase that leads to the breathtakingly elegant lounging area. Open windows to the balcony give us the full-on sights and sounds of the ancient waterway as it teems from dawn to dusk with modern-day traffic. In the adjacent dining room and bar there’s plenty of time to ogle handsome gondoliers sporting traditional striped shirts, black trousers and straw hats on the back of their wooden boats as they row and serenade dreamy-eyed couples. The delicate dance between the men with oars and all manner of vaporetti (water taxis) is somewhat mesmerizing.
There’s more to discover upstairs—especially if you encounter a torrential downpour like we did. Off the salon, another lofty lounge area, there’s the Count’s own library. Lined with cuir de Cordoue embossed gold leather from the 16th century, it’s home to walnut-filled bookcases that are full to the brim with ancient books. Curiously, the hand-bound treasures haven’t been affected by the elements at all and remain intact for us to gently peruse. It’s impossible not to marvel at the history here!
This weather called for a game of chess with the Count’s elegant set, but it could also be backgammon or cards in the Stanza del Tiepolo. A half-finished jigsaw puzzle was also calling my name. Not for long, however, as the secret spa that’s hidden away on the third floor had a last-minute appointment that I managed to grab. Dimly lit with low ceilings and a sanctuary-type feel, it’s a lovely place to hide from the storm. There’s even a soaker tub in one of the three treatment rooms.
Fortunately the rain is gone by day two and it is time to enjoy a visit to the island of Murano, the legendary spot for hand blown glass. Best advice: Ask the Aman concierge for his suggestion and he’ll send you to Venini.
Handed down by tradition from father to son, gondoliering is a coveted profession on the Venice Lagoon with only 425 licenses granted by the guild after training and apprenticeships, and there is nary a female gondolier in sight. (Apparently there are a few.) Talked into a sunset cruise past the famous Rialto Bridge, to Piazza San Marco and Saint Mark’s Basilica via the back canals, my daughter and I get a chuckle as Antonio, our third generation gondolier, recounts an embarrassing tumble into the cold water during a tight turn off a narrow canal.
Back in the Aman Canal Grande garden, one of a few private spaces in Venice that has mature trees, grass and borders the water, we enjoy a few glasses of a big Italian red before an alfresco dinner. Naoki, the highly recommended summer-season-only Japanese restaurant in the garden, serves tasty French-inspired kaiseki cuisine and is, at times, open to non-hotel guests as well.
When the day is done, it’s particularly pleasant to head up to the tiny altana for an after-dinner drink and a stunning view of the rooftops of Venice. On a clear day the Alps are also visible in the distance.
Coming and unfortunately going as we must, and in between, we’re whisked along the canals and across the water by the hotel’s purpose-built classic Venetian launch. Built in 1930’s art-deco style in elegant mahogany it’s sound proof, air conditioned, and has a fridge, music system and hot towel cabin. It’s all these special touches and, of course, the one-on-one personalized service that Aman is famous for that make our stay here truly something to write home about. Aman Canal Grande…a most charming destination for a splendid few days in Venice! www.amanresorts.com
Photo: Aman Resorts
