By Keith Edwards
Gion Duck Noodles
Japanese culture, simplicity, attention to detail, continuous improvement, and the concept of ichigo ichie, often translated as “in this moment an opportunity” provoked some radical thinking about dining for me. I’m not against tasting menu’s but enough is enough. Forget the fancy fixtures—what about the food? And the relationship between chef and customer?
When I found Gion Duck, a pokey restaurant in the back alleys of historic Kyoto, its simplicity was stunning. No fancy décor, no thumping music, no amuse bouche, no cascade of little dishes. Just a chef, a gas cooker and six battered pots and pans plus some re-purposed coffee flasks bubbling away with ramen dashi.
Ramen or Noodles, take your pick. It was pure engagement with ‘chef’ on the miniscule counter where eight of us were squished in. But, nothing could distract me from my appreciation of his Duck Ramen – noodles, an egg, duck and dashi with an optional sprinkle of sancho powder.
Sadly, this elemental personal dining experience is virtually absent for us back home. The closest I’ve come to it so far was a few years ago at Tojo’s in Vancouver. Brandishing a murderous sushi knife, Chef Hidekazu Tojo handed me his sushi then proceeded to lean over the counter. In a whispered voice that a Hollywood actor playing a mafia don would die for, he growled “No soya sauce, PLEASE!”
No web site. No reservations.
Von Slick’s Finishing Touch
Home cooks can only do so much juggling to replicate that restaurant “finishing touch.” Enter the strangely named Von Slick’s products. Their six finishing butters come in an ingenious push-to-dispense tube. Pull it out of the fridge, thaw for a few minutes, push to extrude, and voila—a medallion of flavour to punch up virtually any dish. And then its back in the fridge. Clever. This Manitoba based outfit co-founded by Landon Kroeker and Robert Sengotta in 2021 has even garnered two innovation awards for their product.
I’m partial to their Garlic Confit—after all, what food doesn’t go with garlic butter? But as they say, there’s more! A Mushroom Butter for an umami boost or Olive Tapenade for a hit of tanginess. Roasted Repper for your veggies perhaps. On the sweet side my call is go for the Salted Caramel or the interesting Wild Blueberry butter.
Currently on Von Slick’s distribution is primarily in Western Canada, but they are said to be coming our way.
vonslicks.ca
