Subtext Coffee Roasters
Coffee has come a long way from 17c European coffee houses where a hefty jolt of caffeine was all that mattered. It tasted pretty bad apparently. Some, unkindly, liken it to today’s Starbucks dark roast. Hardly surprising that so many drown bad coffee in cream, sugar, froths and syrups. Coffee is misunderstood.
My decades long quest for great cups has led me to explore coffee worldwide. There is something magical almost ethereal when carefully grown, harvested and processed beans are sympathetically roasted and then precisely brewed. The colour, the aroma, the primary and secondary flavours—everything comes together. And then there is the terroir, whether shade grown, a cooperative or single farm, the bean variety and so on. It’s almost endless. This is where Toronto based coffee roaster Subtext comes in, specifically their monthly subscription which I took up about six months ago.
Each month, they send me two packets of specially selected coffee, accompanied by small cards that feature photographs of the growers, their history, the origin of the coffee, the variety of beans, and the processing method. A recent shipment included a delightful washed Gesha variety from coffee farmer Raquel Lasso in the village of Buenos Aires in Colombia. The tasting notes of raspberry, strawberry, tropical fruit, with vibrant and complex flavours, were spot on. Also in the same shipment, was a coffee from the volcanic West Valley region of Costa Rica. These beans were cultivated by a family with a rich history in coffee production, dating back to the early 19th century. While different from the Colombian Gesha, this coffee offered a taste profile of iced tea, stone fruit, and orange, with a sudden sweetness and complexity that was equally captivating.
subtext.coffee I alex@subtext.coffee
Épurée
Montrealer Marco Gagnon’s mashed potatoes with duck fat and steak spice won the Innovation Award at the 2025 SIAL International Food Show in Toronto. I’m a sucker for anything in Duck fat and for me this puree is heaven. And, for those who wish to try it at home, the dish is ready in just 7 minutes.
The judges noted that this entry was “upscaling a comfort food” and giving it a premium twist. That, my friends seriously under sells Chef’s Gagnon’s talent. Fresh and natural he buys direct his ingredients from farmers every week. There are no additives, just potatoes, Brome Lake duck fat and Montreal steak spice. The result is a lovely rich mouthfeel with a zing of spice. I could eat this on its own. Or, with this as a side dish to fish or chops, it simply elevates a meal to what you would get in a fine restaurant.
Chef Gagnon’s back story is that five years ago, after 12 years at the Montreal Ritz Carleton, he struck out on his own. He wanted to make it easy for everyone to turn out a dish from the tables of a fine restaurant. And he has succeeded.
I also sampled some of his other products Puree of Carrots, Sweet Potato Puree and a colourful and unexpectedly lovely Beets and Maple Syrup. Currently his products sold mainly in Quebec, at Sobey’s and IGA. But be on the look-out as Gagnon tells me he’s negotiating distributorships on Ontario.
The Oatcake Society
Finding a healthy option in among the bewildering array of mid-afternoon snacks is a challenge.
Many, like granola bars, boast vibrant images of natural ingredients. However, with a closer look at their labels one finds a disappointing mix of binders, fillers, preservatives, and artificial sweeteners.
Enter Gregory Pringle, a Cape Breton native who has joyfully combined his passion for baking with his family’s Scottish heritage. Even as a youngster Gregory was selling homemade treats to friends and classmates. When the job market took a turn in 2011, Pringle innovatively transformed his baking skills into a full-time business. We’re glad he did.
Gregory’s oatcakes are the perfect healthy snack. They offer a rich, satisfying crunch with just the right balance of sweetness. Available in a delightful array of flavours, Pringle’s oatcakes are free from any artificial ingredients. His selection ranges from the classic original to specialty versions that are infused with lemon and almonds, peanut butter, and apple and cinnamon. There’s even oatcakes with crushed chilli pepper with dark chocolate. My personal favourite is the cranberry oatcake, featuring cranberries, of course and organic oats, complemented by sea salt and lemon zest.
greg@oatcakesociety.com I oatcakesociety.com
Merci Mon Ami
Bottled condiments and I have a troubled relationship with nothing I’ve tried hitting just the right notes. That is until I met Chef Cindy MacDougall’s Sweet Garlic & Chili Sauce.
This is a dressing that understands why balance and structure are the keys to success. It’s not about a Scoville Scale arms race after all. At the Royal Winter Fair in 2023, MacDougall’s recipe was crowned Grand Champion in the Professional Hot Sauce competition and now I can understand why. Magically the sauce blends sufficient sweetness with spicy while the honey mellows the fire. It’s a harmonious dance that enlivens the palate.
Merci Mon Ami was founded by Chef M in 2002, and today the female only run small batch company operates out of a charming store in Liberty Village.
Troubled relationships be damned – pass the sauce!
Closed on weekends.
mercimonami.ca I info@mercimonami.ca
Maison Théier
Non alcoholic wines are rather like my old school reports: “could do better”. That is until I tried Maison Theier Cuvee Prestige 2024.
Benjamin Garant-Pruneau, the product’s founder, realized the shortcomings of making wine then subsequently removing the alcohol. As he saw it, the processing removed what made it attractive in the first place…the aromatic compounds that interacted with the alcohol. Removal also removed both the texture and mouthfeel because the alcohol adds volume and warmth. And, on top of it all, adding sugar or texturizing agents altered the taste profile.
Instead, Garant-Pruneau chose to start with imported high-quality teas that boasted a natural aromatic complexity. He then began to experiment with slow natural fermentation with honey. The final result—a round effervescent and elegant tea crémants that he bravely likens to Champagne. While I might stop a tad short of calling his Cuvee Prestige the equivalent of Champagne, I dare say it’s an exceptional non-alcohol beverage. That’s probably why fine restaurants such as Lucie in Toronto have it on the wine list. It’s simply that good.
Garant-Pruneau is looking for retail distribution in Ontario and is in talks with the LCBO. Currently it’s also available at Café Allwood, 1183 Queen Street East.
