The Meandering Epicurist

 

Bindia Indian Bistro

Arguments can rage about where in Toronto, or Canada to find the finest Indian food but Bindia, my favourite, consistently scores well with its dependably good food, friendly front of house staff and easy ambiance. And Jyoti, a name derived from Sanskrit that means flame or light, is entirely appropriate for the warm personality of the woman who manages Bindia. Their quiet, flower bedecked patio opening onto Market Street adjacent to St. Lawrence Market which during the summer months, is pedestrianized, is just a bonus.

One of my vegetarian friends, swears by the Tandoori Salmon and it is excellent but I have to admit that over a decade or so I’ve been coming here, the staff can usually guess my order. Dish One: Mint tikka, dal makhni (mild) with garlic naan. Something about their mint marinade elevates the dish. The earthy but rich dal makhni nicely compliments the chicken. And, if you love garlic, you are bound to fall for the garlic naan. 

Dish Two: Chicken Tikka—marinated chicken cubes that have been marinated in yoghurt and spices threaded onto skewers and transformed into a juicy slightly smoky bites in a traditional searingly hot tandoori. 

Tip—order them one a time as the meal progresses as there is nothing quite like a piping hot fresh from the tandoor naan in all its buttery garlicy indulgence. Unless you have a voracious appetite, you will likely be able to leave with leftovers for the next day. I wonder if there is a Sanskrit word for that? bindia.ca

Haskap Preserve

Move over blueberries. Thist was the almost evangelical message from Charley Clerk at a recent international food show I was invited to attend. Charley represents a small farmer owned business, Haskap Highlands Orchards which is based in Truro Nova Scotia where this remarkable berry is grown and harvested. I was eager to sample Haskap after hearing Charley’s well-practiced spiel about the haskap berry’s antioxidant properties—high levels vitamins A and C, and minerals that exceed those found in blueberries and oranges. To say I was both impressed and startled is an understatement. These are Red Bull style berries. Intense tannic flavours of dark black fruit with hints of tanginess and sweetness mixed in promise an unmatched immune boost if the literature is to be believed. 

Native to subarctic regions of Japan, Russia and northeastern China the berry has thrived in Canada. I later learned from a New York Times article that Toronto chef Zach Kolomei chef uses them in soft serve ice. Others opt for using Haskap in their savoury dishes. I was personally opted for Haskap preserve. It’s versatile and ready to give virtually any dish or dessert a bit of a zing. haskaphighland.com

Toundra Nordic Relish

Relish likely arose centuries ago as a way to preserve produce and, in the process, produced an enhancing condiment. Things have evolved. Today, from richness cutting neon green sweet pickle on ballpark hot dogs to more subtle uses by chefs who use it in toppings, garnishes or in dressings and sauces, relish is as I see it, is often underappreciated and unsung.

Case in point, Serres Toundra’s cucumber-based relish adds a bright, tangy and crunchy element—an enlivening balanced blend of sweet sour and spicy notes. Based in Saint-Félicien, in La Belle Province, Toundra came about as a way of tackling shameful food waste. Their strategy was to find a use for the left behind, non-standard sized, “imperfect vegetables” that were too long or two short for retail sale.

After extensive research and adopting techniques such as rainwater harvesting and heat recovery from nearby factories, the team came up with their winning relish. I particularly liked its balance. Not too sweet, not too sour it delivers a lovely crunch from mustard seeds. serrestoundra.com/en 

Acorn Chocolates

Morgan Whelan Garrett arrived at her whimsical chocolate artistry by pure serendipity. At the age of 11 she was sometimes looked after by a woman who owned a chocolate shop. Hardly surprising, this sparked a life-long love of chocolate. About five years ago she combined her other talent, painting with her passion for chocolate. The result is a collection of spray-painted, dazzlingly, vibrant treats produced by her company, Acorn. 

Some of Morgan’s creations celebrate her childhood memories of simpler times. Her signature PB & J Squirrel, for instance, is a playful twist on the classic peanut butter and jelly sandwich. It features a half shell of white and another of dark chocolate that she fills with strawberry jelly, peanut ganache and serves on sourdough toast. The standout for me—the hot chocolate bombe an artistic orb that’s almost too beautiful to dunk in warm milk. 

The bonbon range is a unique with delightful mix of expected flavours like salted caramel and unexpected combos like pistachio and rhubarb, cardamom and coffee and orange and nutmeg. Each piece is a symphony of gentle meets complex flavours with a peanut butter and jelly bonbon adding a nostalgic touch.

While Acorn Chocolates currently does not have a retail outlet, chocolate enthusiasts across Canada can enjoy Morgan’s creations through online or phone ordering as well as shipment via courier. acornchocolates.com

Chilled Mint Pea Soup

The garden pea is the Cinderella of summer. Yet, for me, fresh out of the pod peas are a genuine embodiment of our all to soon over summer season. Between June and August, you’ll likely find me on a Friday afternoon at Mrs. Li’s, Family Foods in St. Lawrence Market, rooting through the barrel of freshly picked peas. Not for me the neon green frozen pea or the bags of more or less fresh shelled peas. I’m out for the real thing that’s as fresh as possible. I’ve learned that the natural sugars that give peas their  sweetness quickly turn into starch after picking.

Shelling peas is, at best, a mind-numbing activity however, not to mention the disproportionate space they take up in the refrigerator. All of which is why you will also find me at Summerhill Market hunting for their equally seasonal Mint Pea Soup. When the craving hits, or for last-minute entertaining, I can’t help but reach for this perfect meal starter. A lovely pale green colour, it has a fine-grained texture providing an appealing mouth-feel, counterbalancing the unashamed richness of its base of butter and milk. With subtle zings of mint and lime juice, its balance is perfect. Time to stock up before it’s gone. www.summerhillmarket.com

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