Waterworks Food Hall
It’s easy to overlook a gem in your own backyard. So, when the UK’s Daily Telegraph listed Waterworks Food Hall as a must-see Toronto destination, I went off to investigate.
A sort of multicultural version of the Mercado de San Miguel Food Market in Madrid, but with a hipster vibe, Waterworks is located on the edgy West side of University Avenue, between Adelaide and Richmond. And, as the name suggests, it’s the redevelopment of a former 1930’s water plant.
Spanning 55,000 square feet with high black ceilings, white painted walls and polished concrete floors, the space has been carved up into a series of open kitchens. All under one roof, it’s possible to sample a riotous admixture of the Toronto food scene. There’s also a similarly scrambled clientele from business types on a break, ladies that lunch and work from homers tapping away on their keyboards.
What nicely distinguishes the Waterworks Food Hall is its absence of big corporate brands. No burger chains, no microwave and serve joints. Instead, it’s a vibrant hub of entrepreneurs, micro-offshoots of established restaurants, gourmet pizza places, a high-end coffee shop. Imagine, I even discovered one of my favourite ice cream parlours. This eclectic diversity defies anyone with a jaded palate not to find something to like. But where to start? Read on.
Island Oysters
A few oysters to start perhaps? A bijou outpost of Jason Kun’s Bloordale Village resto is there with a selection of their most popular oysters: Smoky Island Emerald or the salty and appropriately named, Effingham Fliptide. On Mondays and Tuesdays between 3 and closing at 10 pm Malpaques are a bargain at $2 each.
Liu by Loqum Atellier
In an instant gastronomic teleportation has whisked me to Istanbul …. Yes, there’s an outpost of the College Street bakery café Loqum Atellier here at the Waterworks. Oh the agony of choice – Baklava, Halva or Turkish Delight?
Their baklavas are masterpieces of texture and taste, oozing a delicate but not overpowering sweetness tinged with subtle floral notes. Should I opt for classic Pistachio Baklava or, the Carrot Slice? The options are easy… I can ask for as much or as little as I wish and into an elegant presentation box it goes to be weighed at checkout.
Liu’s Halva, particularly the pistachio variety, stands out for me with its unique moist granular texture. Surprisingly light in density and not overly sweet, it offers a gentle yet exotic flavour profile that transports me back to the bustling streets of Istanbul.
Aburi Sushi
More seafood? Part of the Japanese-owned Aburi Restaurant Group with Michelin-starred Aburi Hana and Harbourfront’s Miku, taking a seat at Aburi Sushi is more akin to an omakase experience.
Here in a laid-back edgy casual atmosphere you can sample some of their most recognized dishes such as the flame-seared Aburi Salmon Oshi. Hanging at the bar affords the floor show of sushi chefs at work.
Remarkably they were offering Tuna Maki rolls at $5.50 and the hand rolled Tuna Belly & Scallion Temaki at $ 8.00. Specials also enliven their offerings. Even the most parsimonious can indulge here.
Grape Witches
Nestled comfortably at the west end of the hall, there’s an intimate bottle shop called Grape Witches.
I settle into their micro bar and sample some of their low intervention, sustainable and biodynamic wines. Happily quaffing a glass of Sicilian Il Mortellito Tuttu, a charming, if idiosyncratic, red-white blend matured in stainless steel tanks. It boasts just a fleeting herbaceous note.
In the midst of it all, my attention was drawn to an almost obscured small electronic candle. I once had a white witch as a secretary (really!) and I know candle flame is symbolic of focus, intention and meditation. Given Grape Witches raison d’etre, that seems all to appropriate—even if it’s entirely in my imagination.
As I see no pentangles and or Eye of Newt on the short bar menu, I’m back to browsing. Anticipating confusion over their off-the-radar wines the witches have attached tags to each bottle with icons and a matching menu. There’s a huge selection. Each allows me to assess a wines Freakiness (from 1 to 5 the latter being “outrageous, other-worldly) its Vibe (‘experimental’ ) or its more mundane Plush and Textured (“full-bodied sips to steal the show”).
Wines at the bar are changed weekly and enthusiastic staff will happily pour samples. If you want to buy a bottle there is a modest $20 corkage (waived on Sunday). As the whole food hall is licensed, you can amble about with your preferred libation. What’s not to like?
Boxcar Social
Coffee to finish at Boxcar Social—the team here continues to live up to its name. From my early review of its long-closed Queen West location where it pioneered what has come to be known as ‘third-wave’ coffee shops, “BS” has branched out into wines and other libations. Their small outlet here is no different with exclusive use of coffee from my current favourite, Subtext Coffee Roasters.
Here at Waterworks, in one delightful afternoon, I’ve grazed my way from Sicily, to PEI and from Turkey to Central and South America. The UK journalist was right this is unique spot.
