And Old Finds New
By Keith Edwards
Iam sitting in the Rocca restaurant in the sparklingly new Istanbul Raffles Hotel. “Memories and dreams are what inspire my cooking,” Executive Chef Ali Ronay tells me. That phrase stays with me.The memories of past and present are palpable in Istanbul. I felt them around me earlier as I sat back in one of the hotel’s black BMWs, placidly watching the world go by as we purred through the honking, snarled traffic and climbed into the serene hills above this city of old and new, East and West.After checking in, I find myself settling back and sipping artisanal tea in the hotel’s sumptuous, art-filled, fountain-tinkling lobby. Ancient cultural crossroads are momentarily conjured up as an aristocratic elderly woman leaning heavily on a cane totters past, not far behind a striking dark-eyed woman dressed in a bright yellow Islamic-inspired long jacket, tight white trousers and Dior sneakers.I have a brief sojourn in the Writers Bar for an aperitif, and then it’s time to sample Chef Ronay’s cooking in the elegant minimalist Rocca restaurant. The amuse-bouche is a tantalizingly salty paste of anchovy, tomato, red pepper and butter.
He recommends the seafood meza (a word meaning taste, flavour or snack), which turns out to be a plate of four contrasting tastes, from earthy octopus segments to a creamy rich taramasalata-like confection. Then it’s on to his signature dish: braised lamb shank that is elegantly simple and perfectly cooked with an enchanting hint of sweetness from plums, all in a delicate sauce. The charming maître d’ has paired this perfectly with Chateau Kalpak 2010, an award-winning, well-structured local red wine.
Contented, I retire to my Horizon Suite. There’s a discreet tap at the door: It’s the butler, suggesting she draw my bath. Instead, I decide to enjoy another glass of wine on the glass-sided balcony and watch the fading pink sunset as it illuminates the magical sight of ships plying the Bosphorus far below. The thick rugs, leather chairs, intricate geometrical ceiling frieze, artworks and objets d’art together create the relaxed ambience of a luxurious private residence. The frenetic chaos of the city is a world away.
The concierge can arrange private transfers to the many amazing sights of Istanbul. There are some obvious must-sees, including the stunning 1,500-year-old Hagia Sophia, which was built as a church, turned into a mosque and is now a museum; the iconic Blue Mosque; and the Topkapi Palace, the seat of power of the former Ottoman Empire. But a less well-known gem is the Church of St. Saviour in Chora, whose Byzantine-era frescoes are truly stunning. (Parts of the church are not accessible due to renovations, but fortunately most of the frescos are.)
If you feel in the mood for a little shopping, the hotel is conveniently attached to the glittering new Zorlu Centre mall, a wonderful collection of high-end stores, restaurants and cafes. I stumbled upon a delightful small store, a branch of the 120-year-old Atelier Rebul, one of the first pharmacies in Istanbul. It still sells their wonderful Lavender Eau De Cologne, first produced from lavender in Monsieur Rebul’s garden.
On the patio the next morning, as I bask in the morning sunshine and savour a sumptuous breakfast fit for a sultan, I reflect that my time at Raffles has been a perfect stay, the very essence of memories and dreams.
