Who needs a mini bar when your room is above 2.5 million litres of vintage, tawny and white Port that’s aging gracefully in the cellar? Just ask and sommelier Carlos Veira will happily take you on a tour and introduce you to some of the rare fortified wines that have been underground in Gaia for 30 years, or more.
As we mosey up the narrow, cobbled streets of ancient warehouses, I wonder where my driver is taking me. Eventually he stops at a narrow portal where I’m greeted by a life-size, amber resin statue of 17th-century Margaret Theresa of Spain—a stunning piece contemporary artist Manola Valdes. A befitting welcome to the ancient cellars of Kopke, the world’s oldest port wine house turned hotel.
Caramelized perfection
I’m ushered into a discreet elevator that takes me down into their reception area where a glass of ruby port awaits. The lobby seems to be somewhat of a private art gallery. Mine for perusing…three remarkable Calder ‘gouache and ink on paper ‘pieces in 1638 – the restaurant just off the lobby. A giant fabric octopus by Valquíria Roriz seems at the ready to grab me as I head down the circular staircase to my room. There are also two huge Miro lithographs in the wine cellar. And, at every turn along the way, I serendipitously stumble on more astonishing mid-century art. My restrained but elegantly appointed overnight quarters are part of a renovated port wine warehouse with wonderful views across the Douro River into the old city of Porto.
Ripe with history
Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia Hotel is a serene 5-star respite from the bustling city, just a short stroll through statue-dotted gardens to the river and the bridge, or ferry, that goes across the river to Gaia’s counterpoint city, Porto (or as the Portuguese call it, Oporto). With 150 rooms and suites and the Tivoli Spa, staying here is the perfect link between the two cities and their founding heritage. And to top it off, and this may be my imagination, but there seems to be an imperceptible waft of nutty sweetness from the cellars. In fact, Port, often referred to as the “Philosopher’s Wine”, is never far away. Even at breakfast, a bottle of 20-year-old Tawny port complements the coffee. This is caramelized perfection I can recommend.
Despite being open for only a year, the 1638 restaurant (named for the year Kopke was founded) under three Michelin star Chef Nacho Manzano, is already a culinary destination. Executive chef Tony Salgado tells me the cuisine draws inspiration from the bounty of Portugal’s Atlantic coast blended with Iberian tastes from Manzano’s childhood in the mountain pastures of the northern Spanish principality of Asturias Paired with some exclusive Kopke wines, dining here is certainly a treat topped off with a post-meal visit to the historic cellar where Carlos Veira holds court with tasting flights of 20, 30, and 40-year old vintage Port.
Flights from Toronto, typically require one European stop before landing in Porto’s small but efficient Airport. Tivoli hotels, part of Minor Hotels group, have deep roots in Portugal and offer curated properties that reflect where they are located.
If you go…
Porto is a coastal city in Northwest Portugal known for its stately bridges and Port wine production. Ribeira—the riverside district—boasts winding cobbled streets that pass merchant’s houses.
